(Wharfedale to Bishopsdale/Wensleydale)
Continuing my Dale hopping, I left Kettlewell by going due N up a green-lane then carried on over hill tracks to Cam Head. Good dry paths took me over Starbotten Fell and round the shoulder of Buckden Pike (2000 feet). Great walking on dry turf with limestone outcrops all around. Trouble is - no water again. I have a fantastic device called a Travel Tap that has a filter in which allows me to drink any running water. But there must be a source of water in the first place and limestone areas are always dry because the water sinks straight through.
Once over the top the terrain changed completely. Now it was peat covered in heather, bilberry and moss. Red grouse rule the roost here.
The day was very hot and humid as I followed the path down towards Walden Head. When I saw an inviting pool I only had to think for 2 or 3 seconds before I discarded my inhibitions and plunged in! The water had trickled over hot rocks and was luke warm.
Then it was 4 miles down a single track country lane that had banks covered in primroses. It reminded me of lanes in Cornwall 5 weeks ago, except that here the primroses were interspersed with orchids (Early purple?)
Then it was over a hill shown as a woodland path on the map
and down to Newbiggen in Bishopsdale which feeds into Wensleydale.
Just after I had pitched the tent we had a torrential downpour for nearly an hour.
I went to The George at Thoralby in the evening and had the best barmeal yet - homemade wild rabbit pie. Excellent!
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