Day 16 Fri 30th April

20 miles from Fiddington to Berrow

Rainy start to day but took waterproofs off before one mile. Followed farm lanes and a well-marked trail, The River Parret Trail, to Bridgewater. I wasn't the only one trying to cross the bridge. These motorists watched in envy as I overtook them.


After a trek alongside the A38 for 3 miles I walked along the side of the river as it flowed Parret fashion towards the sea.


I walked past Burnham to get to my campsite only to be told they didn't accept tents (even though the tent sign was on the OS map). Directed back 2 miles to another site only to be told "Sorry we don't accept dogs"
Decided to press on and wild camp and set off along sands just after 5.00.


However we made such good progress that we soon walked the 4 miles to Berrow. Went into the first holiday village I saw, booked in, and was asked for £23!!! Too tired and too late to do otherwise I paid. The site is 350 acres and has little train to take people around it. There are 600 statics and over 500 pitches for caravans/tents. Sure beats growing cabbages.
-- Post From My iPhones

Day 15 Thurs 29th April

14 miles from Watchet to Fiddington.
Lovely start to the day eating two sausage rolls on a seat overlooking Watchet harbour. Then it started to rain and it continued to drizzle/rain until 6.00
The coast path is none existant from Doniford and I walked along a mud/boulder beach until I abandoned it and went through a gypsy camp to hit the road. I went past West Quantoxhead and up onto the Quantocks where I got completely lost. Visibility was about 100m in the misty drizzle and my battery was down to 6% so I was reluctant to use my GPS.
Eventually I worked out my route to Holford but on the way I encountered a stag hunt. Whilst there were a dozen or so on horseback



there were others following on quad-bikes and 4X4s


As luck would have it the stag went to ground near where I was walking. I saw one rider, being guided by walki-talki, flush the poor animal so that the game could continue.
Arrived at the campsite where they asked for £20 (she told me she had given me £5 reduction). When I quibbled the price it was reduced to £10. Apparently they never get backpackers here and the computer is not progammed for them. They did charge my phone for only 50p though.


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 14 Wed 28th April

15 miles from Porlock to Watchet
Walked over cliffs to Minehead. After days in small villages it seemed like a mini-Blackpool.
This is the end or start of The South West Coast Path and there is a sculpture to mark the spot.






I worked out (from the official guide book) that we have climbed over 40,000 feet of ascent since we set off from Lands End.
From Minehead the path, now The West Somerset Coast Path, goes past a mile long row of beach chalets.





It seems that as I go North the beaches and cliffs get less attractive but the number of caravans, statics and chalets grows. They are everywhere!
Both Gyp and I were walking really well today but I did buy some tiny baby socks for her in Minehead. My left boot is showing real signs of wear on the heel.
I camped right at the top of the campsite field, away from the few other users and with a good view back over my cliff route from Minehead.





The bad news is that I have had to remove 3 ticks from Gyp. I now check her thoroughly every day.

-- Post From My iPhone

Day 13 27th April

15 miles from Lyn Bridge (Lynmouth) to Porlock
Over 3000 feet of ascent
Mileage to date 214 miles
Percentage of total mileage 20%

I decided to stop at Porlock, then Watchet tomorrow, to change two 20 mile days into three shorter days.
Retrospective view of Lynmouth.


First climb out of Lynmouth was long and steep to top of Countisbury Common.

Stopped to fill my Travel Tap (brilliant bit of kit - filters any water source) from Sisters Fountain at Glenthorne when I heard a cuckoo. Listened carefully and clearly heard it again twice.
Coast Path winds through woodlands for miles. Occasional views of sea and South Wales in the background. Eventually, after a diversion due to a landslip, we arrived at Culbone and saw what is claimed to be the smallest complete church in England.






Campsite is very regimented. Statics on the outside, then a ring of caravans with a space in the
middle for tents. So I was the entertainment for all of the sunbathers sat around me drinking beer and wine.
Gyp seemed much better today walking off road on paths. I'm feeling really good apart from my aching knees. The earlier worry about possible shinsplints seems to have been unfounded
-- Post From My iPhone

Day 12 26th April

14 miles from Coombe Martin to Lynmouth.
South West Coast Path Association official guidebook states, "Strenuous....4429 feet of ascent...long lonely section". So basically it was like climbing Ben Nevis but not meeting anyone. I did not see a soul for the first six miles as we walked through low clouds rolling in off the sea.






We did see quite a few Exmoor ponies which thankfully totally ignored us.






When the sun did break through the views were amazing - but not for anyone suffering from vertigo!







Can you spot Gyp coming down the path?
We managed to see a vet in Lynton about Gyp's sore paws. All he could suggest was rest (!) or using doggy boots. She did seem much better today since there was little road walking.
As I was putting my tent up on the bank of The River Lyn I caught sight of a dipper on the rocks in the rapids. Apart from a couple of ravens on the cliffs I did not see many birds at all today. Unfortunately there are lots of midges about near the water, and yet it's still only April. What will Scotland be like?

Day 11 Sun 25th April

12 miles from Barnstaple to Coombe Martin.
Managed to get my iPhone charged at the campsite. This is a constant problem for me. So much that I switch it off during the day, only turning it on when I want to take a photo or use the GPS (which along with Bluetooth is always switched off). This is why I struggle to reply to friends' comments and text-messages. Sorry!
Walked up and down narrow country lanes in thick mist. It wasn't much fun seeing headlights coming towards you with no verge to jump onto.
Short day - arrived at Coombe Martin at 1.00 so went for a pint and a Ploughman's outside a pub overlooking the beach. I had to smile as I sat there in shorts and short-sleeves and watched a woman walk past with hat, scarf and gloves on!
Gyp has a couple of sore patches under her front feet and I am considering taking our first rest day tomorrow. It's a lovely campsite very near to the beach but up a valley so peaceful that I saw a buzzard hovering overhead earlier.
"Coombe" is now the ubiquitous place name, taking over from the Cornish "Tre-"

-- Post From My iPhone

Day 10. Sat 24th April

20 miles from Buck's Mill to Barnstaple.
Awoke to the best dawn chorus I have ever heard coming from the surrounding woodlands.
Followed CP for 6 miles and whilst I enjoyed walking through the deciduous woods in early Spring I don't think I would enjoy this section when the trees have all their leaves. The sea wouldn't be visible
I crossed the River Torridge at Bideford


Then followed The Tarka Trail to Barnstaple. On this old railway track met a guy I have seen twice before, days ago. We got chatting and Graham told me that he was doing LEJOG and so, for the first time since I set off I admitted to someone that my ultimate destination is JOG. Up until now I have always said "Minehead or maybe push on to Bristol" when anyone had asked.
This is how Gyp always helps me put the tent up after a long day.



I went into my campsite's bar (Tarka Holiday Park) at 9.00pm and they told me it had just closed. Business is very slow down here. On most campsites I am the only one camping and the most there has been is six


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 9 Fri 23rd April

Late posting due to lack of connection and BlogPress crashing again.
Long day. 21 miles from Bude to Bucks Mill.
Walked Coast Path to Coombe and then went E up Coombe Valley. Fantastic display of wild flowers since early ones like primroses and violets have now been joined by wood anemonie, wood sorrel, ramsons and bluebells. In the damp patches bugle, lady smock and golden saxifrage carpet the ground. I have never seen such a variety all flowering together in such profusion.
On entering coombe came across thatchers busy at work.



Campsite at Buck's Mill (Steart Farm) was excellent. Very friendly and good facilities for £4. Recommended

CORNWALL

I finally left Cornwall after 9 days and 144 miles. My memories are: friendly locals, choughs, names beginning with Tre, St Austel Tribute ale, spectacular scenery, horrendous ascents/descents and concrete mixers! It seems that now all of the stables and barns have been converted and later extended the local builders are all busy extending extensions. How ironic that one of my last sights in Cornwall was of the thatchers.


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 8 Thurs 22nd

Only 16 miles from Boscastle to Bude but it involved over 4000 feet of ascent. My knees really struggled and I was relying on my poles to lever my way up some of the flights of steps. B&B is the way to do the SW Coast Path.
Lots of linnets and stonechats in the gorse and blackthorn, which was so extensive it looked like snow.





There are wild goats and ponies in places which have been put there to eat the scrub.





Both Gyp and I are really knackered but it's another big day tomorrow.

Post From My iPhone

Day 7. Wed 21st April

Struggling to update blog. No connection. Parcel arrived at 1 o'clock so had half day to get to Boscastle 13 miles away.
Country lanes and then C Path took me to Tintagel. What a culture shock. I thought I had stumbled across the extras from an Ali G set. Glad to get back on C P although it was really up and down. Got to Boscastle at 5 o'clock and had a couple of pints but they were not serving food. Up really steep lane 2 miles to campsite. Supper was my emergency food - 8 muesli bars!


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 6. Tuesday 20th. April

Went to bed at 8.00 last night and got up at 6.45 this morning. On the road at 7.15. Campsite office was closed but I did not feel guilty about not paying. What is the loan of a piece of grass and 1 litre of water worth?
After a short walk I came to The Camel Trail and followed it to Wadebridge. Not using the Padstow ferry has added 15 miles to my journey. Photo of Camel Estuary taken from road bridge.


Then over rolling country lanes to Port Isaac. Just past here I was greeted by another walker who is doing the SW Coast Path for charity. I had visited his website and wished him well. I had asked him to look out for " a knackered middle-aged man 30 yards behind a border collie" and he had remembered and recognised me! His website is WanderingWoody.com and he is a lovely young man so I urge you to support him.
We then did six miles over cliffs that rose and descended to many tiny coves. Very hard work. It was here that I spotted what I think is a Natterjack toad.



Paths over farmland took me to Delabole.
My first major problem. No parcel had arrived! I am having parcels sent out every week, by my lovely wife, that contain my next lot of map printouts and, more importantly, Gyp's food. She has arthritis and has a special diet. It has now been promised for today (Wed) and this is why I have time to sit around writing such a long blog entry.
The campsite, Planet Park, also charged £15 (fifteen pounds) for one night! At least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask.
I also felt a nagging pain in my lower right leg which I fear may be shin-splints.
The good news is that I have had the chance to charge my iPhone and PowerMonkey. Gyp has taken the opportunity to have a few hours lying in the sun recharging her batteries.
-- Post From My iPhone

Day 5 Mon 19 April

Once I got round Newquay I had a lovely 6 mile stroll over the cliffs to Mawgan Porth where I had lunch overlooking the beach. The second half of the day was walking along fairly quiet but hilly country lanes.
However the last 2 miles on a busy A road through Little Petherick was very scary. No paths and the windy, hilly main road was very narrow. It's so dangerous that I'm not prepared to walk the mile to the pub in St Issey tonight. Another dry night!
Campsite is deserted but someone has come in and locked the toilet block while I was pitching my tent.





-- Post From My iPhone

Day 4 Sun 18th April

Only 13 miles today due to yesterday's epic. Weather again perfect for walking - sunny but with a gentle N breeze.
I stopped for breakfast and dinner today then had a steak at night.
I had another barefoot beach walk over Perran Sands but the cliffwalk that followed was not as spectacular as previous days. However path was further from road so less tourists.
My main problem is limited battery on iPhone. I switch off Bluetooth and GPS and try to take few photos but I'm still struggling. I managed to get it charged overnight at campsite so now I can catch up with blog


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 3

26 miles today with 3500 feet of ascent. I was intending to stop at Porthowan but campsite has closed. So went on to Cross Combe. Realised later I had only eaten two Cornish pasties all day! Lesson learnt.
First 5 miles on roads then 3 mile paddle across Hayle beach then clifftop path.






Legs much better but still cause comments
-- Post From My iPhone

Day 2

Pendeen to Carbis Bay


I was warned by many about this stage and they did


not exaggerate. A very physically demanding day with over 3000 feet of ascent. Guide book says "On top of Bosigran you have problems ... Path is hardto detect". Very true! We got completely lost, got a shock of an electric fence, broke both poles and cut my bare legs to ribbons on the gorse and blackthorn.
Saw several ravens on top of rock towers and a buzzard soared overhead.
Campsite cost £10.80 (he said he woldn't charge for electric hook-up) and we're the only ones on it. A whole showerblock to myself!


-- Post From My iPhone

Day 1

Day 1. Thursday 15 April





11 miles from LE to Pendeen in ideal walking conditions. Highlight of day was seeing a pair of choughs at close quarters. Saw a sign saying that only 5 pairs bred in Cornwall (and therefore England). Also saw swallows wheatears and fulmars. So a pleasant day sightseeing to start off.


-- Post From My iPhone