Gyp is on her travels again (Pete accompanying her)
see http://c2c2c-gyp.blogspot.com/
shorter walk this year but no less enjoyable
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Monday, 21 June 2010
Thanks
My journey has been a personal challenge but I am well aware of how much help I have received from others.
I would like to thank everyone who has followed my progress, especially those that took the time to write comments on my Blog or text me. It really did help to spur me on when the going got tough.
I really appreciate the visits I got from my wife Zoe, son Chris and daughter Rachel with boyfriend Dave. Thanks also to my three mates, Richard, Ray and Pete who visited me in Kettlewell.
My son Chris very kindly drove us down to Lands End and also came with Zoe to John O'Groats to collect us.
Finally I would like to make it clear that without Zoe's constant support and encouragement I could not have fulfilled my lifelong ambition. Apart from visiting and picking us up, she has organised and sent out our weekly parcels, bought extra kit to replace items broken or lost and generally kept base camp running. She has looked after our home and garden alone while I have been away and I know that she has a list of jobs as long as my arm for when I get back.
I would like to thank everyone who has followed my progress, especially those that took the time to write comments on my Blog or text me. It really did help to spur me on when the going got tough.
I really appreciate the visits I got from my wife Zoe, son Chris and daughter Rachel with boyfriend Dave. Thanks also to my three mates, Richard, Ray and Pete who visited me in Kettlewell.
My son Chris very kindly drove us down to Lands End and also came with Zoe to John O'Groats to collect us.
Finally I would like to make it clear that without Zoe's constant support and encouragement I could not have fulfilled my lifelong ambition. Apart from visiting and picking us up, she has organised and sent out our weekly parcels, bought extra kit to replace items broken or lost and generally kept base camp running. She has looked after our home and garden alone while I have been away and I know that she has a list of jobs as long as my arm for when I get back.
Day 68 Mon 21st June
We set off in drizzle, crossing the River Wick on our very last bridge, a footbridge. Quite apt really.
The A99 was busier than I had expected but as we went on the road got narrower s d narrower and we met less traffic. At times the long straights were very monotonous.
On and on we went. Gyp was grateful for any chance to have a dognap.
A mile before the end Zoe and Chris passed us in the car. Perfect timing! After having our photo taken next to the sign I went into the cafe to sign the official book. I wrote "68 days to fulfil a lifetime's ambition".
After a short rest Zoe accompanied me on the short walk to Duncansby Head, the actual most North Easterly point of Britain.
It is difficult to believe that when we set off, nearly ten weeks ago on April 15th, it got dark before 7 o'clock at night, there was often ice on our tent in the morning, the Election was weeks away and England were supposedly odds on to win the World Cup. (I have seen a television 3 times during our walk, for a total of about 2 hours, and read only two newspapers)
It really does seem years since I saw the choughs, was talking about plans with another End to Ender in Devon, or walked under the M6 using a service tunnel.
A few days ago I did not want the journey to finish, I had enjoyed it so much. But to be honest these last five days of road walking have been a real anticlimax. I am now looking forward to sleeping in a bed, having a cup of tea when I want one and seeing friends again.
The A99 was busier than I had expected but as we went on the road got narrower s d narrower and we met less traffic. At times the long straights were very monotonous.
On and on we went. Gyp was grateful for any chance to have a dognap.
A mile before the end Zoe and Chris passed us in the car. Perfect timing! After having our photo taken next to the sign I went into the cafe to sign the official book. I wrote "68 days to fulfil a lifetime's ambition".
After a short rest Zoe accompanied me on the short walk to Duncansby Head, the actual most North Easterly point of Britain.
It is difficult to believe that when we set off, nearly ten weeks ago on April 15th, it got dark before 7 o'clock at night, there was often ice on our tent in the morning, the Election was weeks away and England were supposedly odds on to win the World Cup. (I have seen a television 3 times during our walk, for a total of about 2 hours, and read only two newspapers)
It really does seem years since I saw the choughs, was talking about plans with another End to Ender in Devon, or walked under the M6 using a service tunnel.
A few days ago I did not want the journey to finish, I had enjoyed it so much. But to be honest these last five days of road walking have been a real anticlimax. I am now looking forward to sleeping in a bed, having a cup of tea when I want one and seeing friends again.
Day 67 Sun 20th June
22 miles from Dunbeath to Wick (all of it on the main road).
After a couple of miles along the A9 I came across a museum featuring old crofts.
The interesting thing is that virtually all modern building is to the same single storey design. These new crofts look like Monopoly houses scattered across the land.
At Latherton the A9 went West to Thurso and I carried on along the A99 to Wick. Road bridge over the River Wick.
About noon the overcast conditions gave way to drizzle and the rain which kept up until I pitched the tent. Then it started again! The good news is that the wind is warmer and now from the NW so it is no longer in our faces.
In the evening I decided to go into town to get something to eat, despite the drizzle. I've given up trying to get Gyp into pubs. Scottish pubs just are just not as dog-friendly as English pubs so I was hoping to sit outside. Unfortunately, there were no pubs with outdoor seating under cover I ended up eating a pizza in a shop doorway then going back to the tent with a now-wet dog. Once back I remembered that one reason that I had decided to venture out was to escape the midges. They were waiting for us on our return ...
After a couple of miles along the A9 I came across a museum featuring old crofts.
The interesting thing is that virtually all modern building is to the same single storey design. These new crofts look like Monopoly houses scattered across the land.
At Latherton the A9 went West to Thurso and I carried on along the A99 to Wick. Road bridge over the River Wick.
About noon the overcast conditions gave way to drizzle and the rain which kept up until I pitched the tent. Then it started again! The good news is that the wind is warmer and now from the NW so it is no longer in our faces.
In the evening I decided to go into town to get something to eat, despite the drizzle. I've given up trying to get Gyp into pubs. Scottish pubs just are just not as dog-friendly as English pubs so I was hoping to sit outside. Unfortunately, there were no pubs with outdoor seating under cover I ended up eating a pizza in a shop doorway then going back to the tent with a now-wet dog. Once back I remembered that one reason that I had decided to venture out was to escape the midges. They were waiting for us on our return ...
Day 66 Sat 19th June
16 miles from Helmsdale to Dunbeath.
I woke up to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore 10 yards away. How much would you have to pay for a pitch like this?
After sausage and bacon butties from the Spar shop we were on our way at 8 o'clock.
The walk out of Helmsdale is a slow long uphill slog for over 3 miles. Today we also faced a strong, cold North wind straight into our faces making it a real struggle.
The whole day was spent following the A9. Usually there was a space beyond the continuous white line or else a grass verge.
I knew all about Berriedale Braes from reading other walkers' reviews but, although it was steep on both sides of the valley, I was surprised how short the climbs were. Less than a mile each side. From the top I could look ahead to where we were heading.
We had a look around Dunbeath but found it very spread out. The seafront and small harbour seem remote from the rest of the village. Dunbeath Castle stands on the cliffs half a mile to the South.
By contrast I really enjoyed my time in Golspie, Brora and Helmsdale. Compact, old-fashioned seaside places with real character.
The campsite, Inver Caravan Park, is just outside the village and very exposed. I had a real struggle to put the tent up in the very strong North wind.
STATISTICS
We have now walked 1084 miles and have 40 more miles to do. (96%).
When we finish in two days time we will have walked for 68 days including the one rest day in Reeth. So the average daily mileage is 16.5 miles.
We have camped every night - not one B&B, although I have been tempted on several occasions.
During the whole journey I have not been in a car, bus or train. We also walked all the way around estuaries to the nearest bridge. We did not use any ferries and this probably added another 25 miles to our journey.
My pack is an Osprey Argon 70 litre and I have been very pleased with it. It cost £200 but was worth every penny. Especially as it was a leaving present from my workmates so it cost me nothing. (They said that they still wanted to be on my back everyday)
The only problem is that as I have lost weight I have also lost some of my natural padding and the hip-belt now digs in occasionally. The belt was actually heated and moulded to my waist in the shop.
The average weight of the pack varies according to how much of my food and Gyp's food I am carrying but it is usually around 15kg (33lb).
I woke up to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore 10 yards away. How much would you have to pay for a pitch like this?
After sausage and bacon butties from the Spar shop we were on our way at 8 o'clock.
The walk out of Helmsdale is a slow long uphill slog for over 3 miles. Today we also faced a strong, cold North wind straight into our faces making it a real struggle.
The whole day was spent following the A9. Usually there was a space beyond the continuous white line or else a grass verge.
I knew all about Berriedale Braes from reading other walkers' reviews but, although it was steep on both sides of the valley, I was surprised how short the climbs were. Less than a mile each side. From the top I could look ahead to where we were heading.
We had a look around Dunbeath but found it very spread out. The seafront and small harbour seem remote from the rest of the village. Dunbeath Castle stands on the cliffs half a mile to the South.
By contrast I really enjoyed my time in Golspie, Brora and Helmsdale. Compact, old-fashioned seaside places with real character.
The campsite, Inver Caravan Park, is just outside the village and very exposed. I had a real struggle to put the tent up in the very strong North wind.
STATISTICS
We have now walked 1084 miles and have 40 more miles to do. (96%).
When we finish in two days time we will have walked for 68 days including the one rest day in Reeth. So the average daily mileage is 16.5 miles.
We have camped every night - not one B&B, although I have been tempted on several occasions.
During the whole journey I have not been in a car, bus or train. We also walked all the way around estuaries to the nearest bridge. We did not use any ferries and this probably added another 25 miles to our journey.
My pack is an Osprey Argon 70 litre and I have been very pleased with it. It cost £200 but was worth every penny. Especially as it was a leaving present from my workmates so it cost me nothing. (They said that they still wanted to be on my back everyday)
The only problem is that as I have lost weight I have also lost some of my natural padding and the hip-belt now digs in occasionally. The belt was actually heated and moulded to my waist in the shop.
The average weight of the pack varies according to how much of my food and Gyp's food I am carrying but it is usually around 15kg (33lb).
Day 65 Fri 18th June
12 miles from Brora to Helmsdale
I was woken up initially by a skylark at 3.59 am and then again at 6.00 am by the groundsman cutting the golf course green 30 yards away from me.
After a pleasant jaunt along the shoreline, passing a colony of terns, we came to the dreaded A9 again. For the next ten miles we walked along this road dodging traffic. Not pleasant. It is even worse when you can see the coastline to your right all the while but you cannot get access to it.
We arrived at Helmsdale at noon and I thought about walking on to Dunbeath but decided to stay in the end. After a couple of hours mooching around I found a really good place to wild camp, right next to the beach.
One problem with wild camping is that it never seems to get dark here. I have not used my torch for weeks. Sunset here is 22.21 compared to home in North Yorks where it is 21.42 (nearly 40 minutes later).
I was woken up initially by a skylark at 3.59 am and then again at 6.00 am by the groundsman cutting the golf course green 30 yards away from me.
After a pleasant jaunt along the shoreline, passing a colony of terns, we came to the dreaded A9 again. For the next ten miles we walked along this road dodging traffic. Not pleasant. It is even worse when you can see the coastline to your right all the while but you cannot get access to it.
We arrived at Helmsdale at noon and I thought about walking on to Dunbeath but decided to stay in the end. After a couple of hours mooching around I found a really good place to wild camp, right next to the beach.
One problem with wild camping is that it never seems to get dark here. I have not used my torch for weeks. Sunset here is 22.21 compared to home in North Yorks where it is 21.42 (nearly 40 minutes later).
Day 64 Thurs 17th June
19 miles from Dornoch to Brora
No rush today so we had a good look around Dornoch. I really like the place. This is the Jail and Dornoch Castle Inn where I paid £3.60 for a lovely pint of Red MacGregor but couldn't afford the restaurant fees and ate down the road.
We set off down a quiet single-track lane to Loch Fleet. I thought about crossing it to avoid a 4 mile detour but after stepping on the mud decided against it. We got a close-up view of seals basking pm a mudbank before having to cross yet another bridge at the Western end of Loch Fleet.
Then it was three miles of dangerous roadwalking along the A9 to Golspie.
Time on our side today, we found some shade and had an hour's rest in Golspie.
The views from Golspie seafront were really interesting because it faces South. So in the distance you can clearly see the snow covered North-facing slopes of the Cairngorms. Then as you look to the left you can see another 70 degrees of land to the East.
We left along the beach road in glorious sunshine.
After a couple of miles we passed Dunrobin Castle.
We walked along a quiet woodland path and then through sand-dunes all the way to Brora. On the way we passed the Carn Liath broch, an iron-age dwelling.
After a lovely meal and a few pints of Young Pretender in The Sutherland Arms we set off to find somewhere to camp for the night.
No rush today so we had a good look around Dornoch. I really like the place. This is the Jail and Dornoch Castle Inn where I paid £3.60 for a lovely pint of Red MacGregor but couldn't afford the restaurant fees and ate down the road.
We set off down a quiet single-track lane to Loch Fleet. I thought about crossing it to avoid a 4 mile detour but after stepping on the mud decided against it. We got a close-up view of seals basking pm a mudbank before having to cross yet another bridge at the Western end of Loch Fleet.
Then it was three miles of dangerous roadwalking along the A9 to Golspie.
Time on our side today, we found some shade and had an hour's rest in Golspie.
The views from Golspie seafront were really interesting because it faces South. So in the distance you can clearly see the snow covered North-facing slopes of the Cairngorms. Then as you look to the left you can see another 70 degrees of land to the East.
We left along the beach road in glorious sunshine.
After a couple of miles we passed Dunrobin Castle.
We walked along a quiet woodland path and then through sand-dunes all the way to Brora. On the way we passed the Carn Liath broch, an iron-age dwelling.
After a lovely meal and a few pints of Young Pretender in The Sutherland Arms we set off to find somewhere to camp for the night.
Saturday, 19 June 2010
Saturday 19th
Pete has arrived at Dunbeath but due to no 3G signal cannot upload his blog. He is fine and Gyp is fine ( still collecting sticks ) and only 2 days to go!!!!!
Wednesday, 16 June 2010
Day 63 Wed 16th June
26 miles from Evanton to Dornoch
A BIG day. I had thought about splitting this into two days but once we got our heads down we just kept walking - from 7.30am to 5.30pm. Weather was overcast but warm.
We followed a cycle-track to Alness, where we got good views of several oil rigs in the loch. Then minor roads (still following NCN 1) took us through Newmore Wood, Scotsburn Wood and Morangie Forest to Tain. We passed the Morangie distillery - what a shame I don't drink whisky!
Another day, another big bridge. Today we had to cross the Dornoch Firth Bridge.
I thought yesterday's footpath was narrow but today's was worse. I couldn't even keep between Gyp and the road. She had to walk in front of me.
Worse still, at either end of the bridge there is no provision for pedestrians. For 300 yards we had to walk on the bank the other side of the barrier or on stones ( marked "Keep Off. Soft Drain")
A single-track lane took us over Dornoch Links to the town and campsite.
However, still no red squirrels! I am getting obsessed with trying to spot one. Loitering around Douglas firs and Scots pine trees. I know that they are watching me and laughing at me. I can even hear them chattering about me. Gyp told me that I'm just hearing voices.
Five more days to go.
A BIG day. I had thought about splitting this into two days but once we got our heads down we just kept walking - from 7.30am to 5.30pm. Weather was overcast but warm.
We followed a cycle-track to Alness, where we got good views of several oil rigs in the loch. Then minor roads (still following NCN 1) took us through Newmore Wood, Scotsburn Wood and Morangie Forest to Tain. We passed the Morangie distillery - what a shame I don't drink whisky!
Another day, another big bridge. Today we had to cross the Dornoch Firth Bridge.
I thought yesterday's footpath was narrow but today's was worse. I couldn't even keep between Gyp and the road. She had to walk in front of me.
Worse still, at either end of the bridge there is no provision for pedestrians. For 300 yards we had to walk on the bank the other side of the barrier or on stones ( marked "Keep Off. Soft Drain")
A single-track lane took us over Dornoch Links to the town and campsite.
However, still no red squirrels! I am getting obsessed with trying to spot one. Loitering around Douglas firs and Scots pine trees. I know that they are watching me and laughing at me. I can even hear them chattering about me. Gyp told me that I'm just hearing voices.
Five more days to go.
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
Day 62 Tues 15th June
19 miles from Bunchrew to Evanton
Beginning to believe!
Left Inverness over Kessock Bridge, the last sizeable town or city.
I've now received my last parcel containing Gyp's food and my maps all the way to John O'Groats. The sea will be on my right for the last 100 miles, so flat walking with no navigation problems The weather forecast is good. Dozens of mountains, a thousand miles and billions of midges are now all behind me.
WHAT CAN POSSIBLY GO WRONG? as Danny Baker would ask.
After walking 2 miles to get back to Inverness I went round the Muirtown Basin, over the end of the Caledonian Canal and then over the River Ness. Looking down on Inverness reinforced my liking for the place and I will definitely visit again and have a good mooch around.
We then went over Kessock Bridge to The Black Isle. After a mile along the A9 I took a minor road North to Munlochy and then a single-track country lane to Culbokie. The White Wave theme continued with May blossom, rowan blossom and cow parsley dominating the views. Sweet ciciley (wild aniseed) added a pleasant aroma to the scene.
Then it was down the hill and time to cross the Cromarty Firth.
We have crossed many bridges on our journey but never have I felt so vulnerable. The path was very narrow and there was no safety barrier between us and the traffic thundering past.
Then it was simply a short walk down a B-road to our campsite at Evanton.
The weather has been warm but overcast - shorts and short-sleeved shirt on all day.
Day 61 Mon 14th June
A dry day that started overcast but ended after tea-time in glorious sunshine.
We followed General Wade's Military Road for two miles on forest roads, then over farmland before taking a rather muddy track through Daviot Woods to Castleton Village. Although we went slowly, stopping frequently, I have still to make a definite sighting of a red squirrel. I have had a couple of possible glimpse and seen a dead one but nothing 100%.
The "White Wave Walk" theme has also suffered lately as I have not seen one hawthorn for over a week. Until today. Notice that, like my walk, the May blossom is nearly over. Also notice the broom which tends to dominate here over gorse.
The track became lane and then a road as I followed it into Inverness. I crossed the River Ness by two bridges that link an island to opposite banks.
Then o crossed the Caledonian Canal and made my way to Bunchrew. I have had to detour 2 miles to this site because the site in Inverness does not accept dogs. Zoe had a rather fraught conversation with a lady there. She intimated that the lady resembled a bovine ruminant that suffered from nasal secretion problems!
However, serendipity rules, okay! Bunchrew is owned by a very friendly man who was happy to receive my last parcel posted by Zoe. The shop is licensed, so I was able to have a couple of bottles of Black Isle "Red Kite Ale" with my chicken and chips from the onsite van.
However the real bonus is the view over Beauly Firth from the door of my tent.
I have spent five hours sitting in the sunshine watching the scene through binoculars. Swallows and house-martins zoom over our heads to get insects from over the burn. An assortment of waders are looking for their tea and an osprey has flown over three times, hovering over the water at times. Out on mudbanks over a hundred seals are sunbathing.
But, for me, the absolute killer is watching a member of the crow family. There are 8 resident members of Corvidae in Britain. Once I spotted the rarest, choughs, in Cornwall I wondered if I could complete the set in one walk. One by one I noted carrion crows, ravens, rooks, jackdaws, jays and magpies. Now I am sitting outside my tent in the evening sunshine, drinking beer and watching hooded crows pick over the seaweed. All this and Robbie Savage commentating on the radio. Can it get any better?
We followed General Wade's Military Road for two miles on forest roads, then over farmland before taking a rather muddy track through Daviot Woods to Castleton Village. Although we went slowly, stopping frequently, I have still to make a definite sighting of a red squirrel. I have had a couple of possible glimpse and seen a dead one but nothing 100%.
The "White Wave Walk" theme has also suffered lately as I have not seen one hawthorn for over a week. Until today. Notice that, like my walk, the May blossom is nearly over. Also notice the broom which tends to dominate here over gorse.
The track became lane and then a road as I followed it into Inverness. I crossed the River Ness by two bridges that link an island to opposite banks.
Then o crossed the Caledonian Canal and made my way to Bunchrew. I have had to detour 2 miles to this site because the site in Inverness does not accept dogs. Zoe had a rather fraught conversation with a lady there. She intimated that the lady resembled a bovine ruminant that suffered from nasal secretion problems!
However, serendipity rules, okay! Bunchrew is owned by a very friendly man who was happy to receive my last parcel posted by Zoe. The shop is licensed, so I was able to have a couple of bottles of Black Isle "Red Kite Ale" with my chicken and chips from the onsite van.
However the real bonus is the view over Beauly Firth from the door of my tent.
I have spent five hours sitting in the sunshine watching the scene through binoculars. Swallows and house-martins zoom over our heads to get insects from over the burn. An assortment of waders are looking for their tea and an osprey has flown over three times, hovering over the water at times. Out on mudbanks over a hundred seals are sunbathing.
But, for me, the absolute killer is watching a member of the crow family. There are 8 resident members of Corvidae in Britain. Once I spotted the rarest, choughs, in Cornwall I wondered if I could complete the set in one walk. One by one I noted carrion crows, ravens, rooks, jackdaws, jays and magpies. Now I am sitting outside my tent in the evening sunshine, drinking beer and watching hooded crows pick over the seaweed. All this and Robbie Savage commentating on the radio. Can it get any better?
Monday, 14 June 2010
Day 60 Sun 13th June
18 miles from Boat of Garten to wild camp West of Moy.
It was raining when we set off and it continued to do so all day until I had pitched the tent.
We left Boat of Garten on a minor B-road but it still had a cycle track alongside. The Scots really have invested heavily in cycle-tracks.
We had to walk down a minor road to Carrbridge. Whilst photographing the old bridge from the new one, I rather foolishly leant my walking pole against a railing. How I smiled when I saw it plunge into the water below when I caught it with my foot.... Never mind I still have another and I don't think there are any big hills left that will require 'double-poling'.
Once we got to the A9 then the NCN 7 kept us off the main road, either by using the old road adjacent to it or by travelling along new purpose-built cycle-paths. After a slog uphill we reached the summit of Slochd, as notified by this sign for rail travellers.
Once over the summit NCN 7 took us through Tomatin to Moy where I headed West on General Wade's Military Road. I was looking for somewhere to camp bit everywhere was soaking. We had to cross to fast flowing streams.
Eventually I spotted a patch of grass big enough for the tent. Although the site is fairly remote the A9 below is very noisy. No matter where you go in Scotland, apart from up the mountains, you are always near a noisy road. Rivers, roads and railway lines all run together through the valleys.
Gyp thinks this is the best campsite yet! Instead of being restricted to the usual mandatory short lead, she can wander at will playing with sticks, branches and dead trees.
It was raining when we set off and it continued to do so all day until I had pitched the tent.
We left Boat of Garten on a minor B-road but it still had a cycle track alongside. The Scots really have invested heavily in cycle-tracks.
We had to walk down a minor road to Carrbridge. Whilst photographing the old bridge from the new one, I rather foolishly leant my walking pole against a railing. How I smiled when I saw it plunge into the water below when I caught it with my foot.... Never mind I still have another and I don't think there are any big hills left that will require 'double-poling'.
Once we got to the A9 then the NCN 7 kept us off the main road, either by using the old road adjacent to it or by travelling along new purpose-built cycle-paths. After a slog uphill we reached the summit of Slochd, as notified by this sign for rail travellers.
Once over the summit NCN 7 took us through Tomatin to Moy where I headed West on General Wade's Military Road. I was looking for somewhere to camp bit everywhere was soaking. We had to cross to fast flowing streams.
Eventually I spotted a patch of grass big enough for the tent. Although the site is fairly remote the A9 below is very noisy. No matter where you go in Scotland, apart from up the mountains, you are always near a noisy road. Rivers, roads and railway lines all run together through the valleys.
Gyp thinks this is the best campsite yet! Instead of being restricted to the usual mandatory short lead, she can wander at will playing with sticks, branches and dead trees.
Day 59 Sat 12th June
11 miles from Dalraddy to Boat of Garten.
I walked the 4 miles into Aviemore along the grass verge of the road. I have been there many times in the past (one February staying in a static with a bunch of mountaineers including Alan Hinks - now a world famous mountaineer) and the place never fails to disappoint me. What a waste of potential. It could be Scotland's version of an Alpine village. Instead we have monstrous concrete carbuncles towering over a high street that has rows of illuminated shop signs like any other town in Britain.
Whilst there, however, I did enjoy a bacon, Brie and cranberry baguette outside a cafe that had free WiFi.
I left Aviemore on the National Cycle Network route 7, which is becoming an old friend. After a while a passed a golf tournament which looked strange with the Cairngorms looming in the background.
Shortly afterwards I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time to photograph this steam train.
I followed NCN 7, which had now been joined by the Speyside Way all the way to Boat of Garten.
Although Gyp was not allowed in The Boat the staff were very amenable and let us sit in the foyer, where I ate my salmon dinner, washed down with real ale from Cairngorm brewery. The only distractions were from a back room, where apparently some football match was on tv, which culminated in a huge whoop when USA scored. To compound my feelings of being "the foreigner" a coach load of Germans arrived to join in the fun.
I walked the 4 miles into Aviemore along the grass verge of the road. I have been there many times in the past (one February staying in a static with a bunch of mountaineers including Alan Hinks - now a world famous mountaineer) and the place never fails to disappoint me. What a waste of potential. It could be Scotland's version of an Alpine village. Instead we have monstrous concrete carbuncles towering over a high street that has rows of illuminated shop signs like any other town in Britain.
Whilst there, however, I did enjoy a bacon, Brie and cranberry baguette outside a cafe that had free WiFi.
I left Aviemore on the National Cycle Network route 7, which is becoming an old friend. After a while a passed a golf tournament which looked strange with the Cairngorms looming in the background.
Shortly afterwards I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time to photograph this steam train.
I followed NCN 7, which had now been joined by the Speyside Way all the way to Boat of Garten.
Although Gyp was not allowed in The Boat the staff were very amenable and let us sit in the foyer, where I ate my salmon dinner, washed down with real ale from Cairngorm brewery. The only distractions were from a back room, where apparently some football match was on tv, which culminated in a huge whoop when USA scored. To compound my feelings of being "the foreigner" a coach load of Germans arrived to join in the fun.
Day 58 Fri 11th June
20 miles from Gaick Pass to Dalraddy (near Aviemore)
After little sleep during the night we packed up early and were walking before 7.00am.
The rough track wound its way down the pass.
After a few miles we began to pass lodges and then houses and the road got better.
I was surprised to note how few birds and animals I had seen passing through the mountains. Maybe this has something to do with it. The bird table is on one side of the track and the shooting hide is about 15 yards away on the other side.
I did see a family of dippers and several roe deer. I have heard cuckoos again several times lately, after an absence of a few weeks, and after hearing one again today I managed to spot it with my binoculars. As I watched, it flew from the top of one dead tree to another one much nearer to me.
Once we got down to Drumguish we followed green lanes and forest tracks to Insh. We then skirted the East shore of Loch Insh to Kincraig from where another forest trail took us all the way to the campsite at Dalraddy
I have just walked 44 miles over a mountain pass in two days and I am knackered. I must change the schedulefor the next two days. I can't face 38 miles in two days.
After little sleep during the night we packed up early and were walking before 7.00am.
The rough track wound its way down the pass.
After a few miles we began to pass lodges and then houses and the road got better.
I was surprised to note how few birds and animals I had seen passing through the mountains. Maybe this has something to do with it. The bird table is on one side of the track and the shooting hide is about 15 yards away on the other side.
I did see a family of dippers and several roe deer. I have heard cuckoos again several times lately, after an absence of a few weeks, and after hearing one again today I managed to spot it with my binoculars. As I watched, it flew from the top of one dead tree to another one much nearer to me.
Once we got down to Drumguish we followed green lanes and forest tracks to Insh. We then skirted the East shore of Loch Insh to Kincraig from where another forest trail took us all the way to the campsite at Dalraddy
I have just walked 44 miles over a mountain pass in two days and I am knackered. I must change the schedulefor the next two days. I can't face 38 miles in two days.
Saturday, 12 June 2010
Day 57 Thurs 10th June
24 miles from Blair Atholl to wild camp on Gaick Pass.
The BIG day. This is the hardest part of the whole walk. Instead of following the A9 over Drumochter Pass I decided to take a cut through the mountains, camping at the highest point over night. We will be 5 miles from the nearest person - not the place to break a leg or feel sick! Especially as there will be no signal on my mobile
I went to the Blair Atholl General Store and stocked up for a minimum of two days walking.
A good healthy diet! (Remember I don't carry a stove). When I bought the Jumbo sausage rolls I assumed it referred to size - once I had eaten one I realised it probably referred to the contents. Anyway Gyp liked them.
After a 5 mile road walk to Calvine we then followed the old road next to the new A9 as it is now a cyclepath. A pleasant 6 miles later, including spotting a sunbathing adder, we arrived at Dalnacardoch. From here we headed due North through forestry tracks on the way to the Gaick Pass.
Yes that is snow on the mountain tops. The rough gamekeepers' track wound up and up before it ended at a ruined lodge. After passing over an indistinct path over boggy ground
a narrow path led around an isolated loch
Although I was surprised by the lack of birds and animals I did see several deer (roe not red as I was hoping for). But the best sight was of mountain hares, a pair of adults and later two separate leverets. All had distinct white tails and I got a really good view of one adult which also had white 'socks' its front feet. I assume these are remnants of their winter coats.
At the summit of the pass it was simply a matter of finding somewhere to pitch the tent. Yet again we had to pitch on sphagnum moss. The midges were out in force and we had to zip up the doors of the tent and sit tight. No phone signal. No Radio5Live. Looks like more instant erudition from Radio4.
The BIG day. This is the hardest part of the whole walk. Instead of following the A9 over Drumochter Pass I decided to take a cut through the mountains, camping at the highest point over night. We will be 5 miles from the nearest person - not the place to break a leg or feel sick! Especially as there will be no signal on my mobile
I went to the Blair Atholl General Store and stocked up for a minimum of two days walking.
A good healthy diet! (Remember I don't carry a stove). When I bought the Jumbo sausage rolls I assumed it referred to size - once I had eaten one I realised it probably referred to the contents. Anyway Gyp liked them.
After a 5 mile road walk to Calvine we then followed the old road next to the new A9 as it is now a cyclepath. A pleasant 6 miles later, including spotting a sunbathing adder, we arrived at Dalnacardoch. From here we headed due North through forestry tracks on the way to the Gaick Pass.
Yes that is snow on the mountain tops. The rough gamekeepers' track wound up and up before it ended at a ruined lodge. After passing over an indistinct path over boggy ground
a narrow path led around an isolated loch
Although I was surprised by the lack of birds and animals I did see several deer (roe not red as I was hoping for). But the best sight was of mountain hares, a pair of adults and later two separate leverets. All had distinct white tails and I got a really good view of one adult which also had white 'socks' its front feet. I assume these are remnants of their winter coats.
At the summit of the pass it was simply a matter of finding somewhere to pitch the tent. Yet again we had to pitch on sphagnum moss. The midges were out in force and we had to zip up the doors of the tent and sit tight. No phone signal. No Radio5Live. Looks like more instant erudition from Radio4.
Wednesday, 9 June 2010
Day 56 Wed 9th June
10 miles from Pitlochcry to Blair Atholl
Half day then relax in sunshine
Going over the mountains tomorrow. 20 miles walk up, wild camp, 20 miles down to Aviemore.
Half day then relax in sunshine
Going over the mountains tomorrow. 20 miles walk up, wild camp, 20 miles down to Aviemore.
Charity
Whenever anyone finds out about my trip the first questlon is always, "Is it for charity?"
I realise that I could have raised a fair amount of money for a good cause and I do feel guilty in failing to do so. Let me say at the outset that I am a great admirer of those people that raise money for charities.
However, I have to be honest and the reason I am doing this walk is for me. It has been my ambition for over thirty years and I did not want anything to jeopardise my chances. There are enough pressures on me already (age, arthritic knees, backpacking all the way and taking a dog) without adding any more.
Many years ago in a Sociology lecture I remember being taught that every decision is a self-enhancing decision. I am wary of big butch men who relish any opportunity to dress up as schoolgirl hockey players "for charity". Likewise, those grey men in grey suits who meet in marble halls and do charitable deeds. They are there primarily to socialise, massage egos and 'network'. That they raise money for charity is great, but it is as a byproduct of their organisation.
I have deliberately tried to keep this trip low-key, telling few friends or neighbours. Less pressure. I vividly remember meeting two young men walking LEJOG for charity thirty years ago when I was doing the Pennine Way - except that they weren't, "walking" that is. They were catching buses, taking taxis and hitching lifts most days. Every evening they would question us about the day's walk so that they could fill in their diaries. There was so much expected of them that they felt they could not fail. I often wonder how they feel about it now?
Nevertheless, I would love to think that some good could result from my self-indulgent actions.
So if you have taken any vicarious pleasure from our journey and would like to give money to charity then may I suggest that the next time you see any tin collecting for any cancer charity then please put in another couple of quid for me and Gyp. Thanks.
Sorry to ramble on, but when you're alone in a leaky tent with a wet dog fast asleep beside you there is plenty of time to think.....
I realise that I could have raised a fair amount of money for a good cause and I do feel guilty in failing to do so. Let me say at the outset that I am a great admirer of those people that raise money for charities.
However, I have to be honest and the reason I am doing this walk is for me. It has been my ambition for over thirty years and I did not want anything to jeopardise my chances. There are enough pressures on me already (age, arthritic knees, backpacking all the way and taking a dog) without adding any more.
Many years ago in a Sociology lecture I remember being taught that every decision is a self-enhancing decision. I am wary of big butch men who relish any opportunity to dress up as schoolgirl hockey players "for charity". Likewise, those grey men in grey suits who meet in marble halls and do charitable deeds. They are there primarily to socialise, massage egos and 'network'. That they raise money for charity is great, but it is as a byproduct of their organisation.
I have deliberately tried to keep this trip low-key, telling few friends or neighbours. Less pressure. I vividly remember meeting two young men walking LEJOG for charity thirty years ago when I was doing the Pennine Way - except that they weren't, "walking" that is. They were catching buses, taking taxis and hitching lifts most days. Every evening they would question us about the day's walk so that they could fill in their diaries. There was so much expected of them that they felt they could not fail. I often wonder how they feel about it now?
Nevertheless, I would love to think that some good could result from my self-indulgent actions.
So if you have taken any vicarious pleasure from our journey and would like to give money to charity then may I suggest that the next time you see any tin collecting for any cancer charity then please put in another couple of quid for me and Gyp. Thanks.
Sorry to ramble on, but when you're alone in a leaky tent with a wet dog fast asleep beside you there is plenty of time to think.....
Day 54 Mon 7th June
16 miles from Scone to Inver (Dunkeld)
You know it's wet when the dawn chorus is made by oyster-catchers (apparently they're a nuisance on this site) and you wake up to this!
We had to retrace our tracks to Perth but the walk through the grounds of Scone Palace was lovely.
Especially as we saved another fiver from the Scots as I claimed my right of free passage as a 'bona fide' traveller.
In Perth I had my first English Breakfast of the trip and realised that it was my first sitdown meal for 11 days and my first cup of tea for 12 days.
We had pleasant walk up the River Tay to Luncarty and then followed a minor road to the A9. The next 2 miles were horrible. Walking in the rain on a wet grass verge facing the traffic with spray from lorries covering you is not pleasant. Gyp was heroic in the face of adversity.
From Bankfoot we took green lanes
and forest trails to Birnam - a pleasant contrast to the earlier experience on the A9.
The only problem was overcoming the Scottish farmers' obsession with electric fences. Usually the insulated handle is on a spring which you simply pull back. After three electric shocks (all fences on view were live) I realised that I had to untie the knot and move the plastic post.
We finally got to the campsite only to find out that the midges had arrived before us.
Dunkeld has two real ale pubs that both allow dogs in. I realise that I have not been inside a pub since Peebles. Time for a rest day methinks - in Pitlochry or Blair Athol before we hit the mountains. All we need is a bit of sunshine.
Can I take this opportunity to thank all of the kind people who have posted comments on my blog. I do try to read them all and Zoe is always keeping me up to date. The problem as always is battery life and connectivity. The photo of Gyp showing her teeth yesterday was to prove to Ken Klug that she really does have a face. The trouble is she hates the camera being pointed at her - very similar to myself!
You know it's wet when the dawn chorus is made by oyster-catchers (apparently they're a nuisance on this site) and you wake up to this!
We had to retrace our tracks to Perth but the walk through the grounds of Scone Palace was lovely.
Especially as we saved another fiver from the Scots as I claimed my right of free passage as a 'bona fide' traveller.
In Perth I had my first English Breakfast of the trip and realised that it was my first sitdown meal for 11 days and my first cup of tea for 12 days.
We had pleasant walk up the River Tay to Luncarty and then followed a minor road to the A9. The next 2 miles were horrible. Walking in the rain on a wet grass verge facing the traffic with spray from lorries covering you is not pleasant. Gyp was heroic in the face of adversity.
From Bankfoot we took green lanes
and forest trails to Birnam - a pleasant contrast to the earlier experience on the A9.
The only problem was overcoming the Scottish farmers' obsession with electric fences. Usually the insulated handle is on a spring which you simply pull back. After three electric shocks (all fences on view were live) I realised that I had to untie the knot and move the plastic post.
We finally got to the campsite only to find out that the midges had arrived before us.
Dunkeld has two real ale pubs that both allow dogs in. I realise that I have not been inside a pub since Peebles. Time for a rest day methinks - in Pitlochry or Blair Athol before we hit the mountains. All we need is a bit of sunshine.
Can I take this opportunity to thank all of the kind people who have posted comments on my blog. I do try to read them all and Zoe is always keeping me up to date. The problem as always is battery life and connectivity. The photo of Gyp showing her teeth yesterday was to prove to Ken Klug that she really does have a face. The trouble is she hates the camera being pointed at her - very similar to myself!
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