My journey has been a personal challenge but I am well aware of how much help I have received from others.
I would like to thank everyone who has followed my progress, especially those that took the time to write comments on my Blog or text me. It really did help to spur me on when the going got tough.
I really appreciate the visits I got from my wife Zoe, son Chris and daughter Rachel with boyfriend Dave. Thanks also to my three mates, Richard, Ray and Pete who visited me in Kettlewell.
My son Chris very kindly drove us down to Lands End and also came with Zoe to John O'Groats to collect us.
Finally I would like to make it clear that without Zoe's constant support and encouragement I could not have fulfilled my lifelong ambition. Apart from visiting and picking us up, she has organised and sent out our weekly parcels, bought extra kit to replace items broken or lost and generally kept base camp running. She has looked after our home and garden alone while I have been away and I know that she has a list of jobs as long as my arm for when I get back.
Monday, 21 June 2010
Day 68 Mon 21st June
We set off in drizzle, crossing the River Wick on our very last bridge, a footbridge. Quite apt really.
The A99 was busier than I had expected but as we went on the road got narrower s d narrower and we met less traffic. At times the long straights were very monotonous.
On and on we went. Gyp was grateful for any chance to have a dognap.
A mile before the end Zoe and Chris passed us in the car. Perfect timing! After having our photo taken next to the sign I went into the cafe to sign the official book. I wrote "68 days to fulfil a lifetime's ambition".
After a short rest Zoe accompanied me on the short walk to Duncansby Head, the actual most North Easterly point of Britain.
It is difficult to believe that when we set off, nearly ten weeks ago on April 15th, it got dark before 7 o'clock at night, there was often ice on our tent in the morning, the Election was weeks away and England were supposedly odds on to win the World Cup. (I have seen a television 3 times during our walk, for a total of about 2 hours, and read only two newspapers)
It really does seem years since I saw the choughs, was talking about plans with another End to Ender in Devon, or walked under the M6 using a service tunnel.
A few days ago I did not want the journey to finish, I had enjoyed it so much. But to be honest these last five days of road walking have been a real anticlimax. I am now looking forward to sleeping in a bed, having a cup of tea when I want one and seeing friends again.
The A99 was busier than I had expected but as we went on the road got narrower s d narrower and we met less traffic. At times the long straights were very monotonous.
On and on we went. Gyp was grateful for any chance to have a dognap.
A mile before the end Zoe and Chris passed us in the car. Perfect timing! After having our photo taken next to the sign I went into the cafe to sign the official book. I wrote "68 days to fulfil a lifetime's ambition".
After a short rest Zoe accompanied me on the short walk to Duncansby Head, the actual most North Easterly point of Britain.
It is difficult to believe that when we set off, nearly ten weeks ago on April 15th, it got dark before 7 o'clock at night, there was often ice on our tent in the morning, the Election was weeks away and England were supposedly odds on to win the World Cup. (I have seen a television 3 times during our walk, for a total of about 2 hours, and read only two newspapers)
It really does seem years since I saw the choughs, was talking about plans with another End to Ender in Devon, or walked under the M6 using a service tunnel.
A few days ago I did not want the journey to finish, I had enjoyed it so much. But to be honest these last five days of road walking have been a real anticlimax. I am now looking forward to sleeping in a bed, having a cup of tea when I want one and seeing friends again.
Day 67 Sun 20th June
22 miles from Dunbeath to Wick (all of it on the main road).
After a couple of miles along the A9 I came across a museum featuring old crofts.
The interesting thing is that virtually all modern building is to the same single storey design. These new crofts look like Monopoly houses scattered across the land.
At Latherton the A9 went West to Thurso and I carried on along the A99 to Wick. Road bridge over the River Wick.
About noon the overcast conditions gave way to drizzle and the rain which kept up until I pitched the tent. Then it started again! The good news is that the wind is warmer and now from the NW so it is no longer in our faces.
In the evening I decided to go into town to get something to eat, despite the drizzle. I've given up trying to get Gyp into pubs. Scottish pubs just are just not as dog-friendly as English pubs so I was hoping to sit outside. Unfortunately, there were no pubs with outdoor seating under cover I ended up eating a pizza in a shop doorway then going back to the tent with a now-wet dog. Once back I remembered that one reason that I had decided to venture out was to escape the midges. They were waiting for us on our return ...
After a couple of miles along the A9 I came across a museum featuring old crofts.
The interesting thing is that virtually all modern building is to the same single storey design. These new crofts look like Monopoly houses scattered across the land.
At Latherton the A9 went West to Thurso and I carried on along the A99 to Wick. Road bridge over the River Wick.
About noon the overcast conditions gave way to drizzle and the rain which kept up until I pitched the tent. Then it started again! The good news is that the wind is warmer and now from the NW so it is no longer in our faces.
In the evening I decided to go into town to get something to eat, despite the drizzle. I've given up trying to get Gyp into pubs. Scottish pubs just are just not as dog-friendly as English pubs so I was hoping to sit outside. Unfortunately, there were no pubs with outdoor seating under cover I ended up eating a pizza in a shop doorway then going back to the tent with a now-wet dog. Once back I remembered that one reason that I had decided to venture out was to escape the midges. They were waiting for us on our return ...
Day 66 Sat 19th June
16 miles from Helmsdale to Dunbeath.
I woke up to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore 10 yards away. How much would you have to pay for a pitch like this?
After sausage and bacon butties from the Spar shop we were on our way at 8 o'clock.
The walk out of Helmsdale is a slow long uphill slog for over 3 miles. Today we also faced a strong, cold North wind straight into our faces making it a real struggle.
The whole day was spent following the A9. Usually there was a space beyond the continuous white line or else a grass verge.
I knew all about Berriedale Braes from reading other walkers' reviews but, although it was steep on both sides of the valley, I was surprised how short the climbs were. Less than a mile each side. From the top I could look ahead to where we were heading.
We had a look around Dunbeath but found it very spread out. The seafront and small harbour seem remote from the rest of the village. Dunbeath Castle stands on the cliffs half a mile to the South.
By contrast I really enjoyed my time in Golspie, Brora and Helmsdale. Compact, old-fashioned seaside places with real character.
The campsite, Inver Caravan Park, is just outside the village and very exposed. I had a real struggle to put the tent up in the very strong North wind.
STATISTICS
We have now walked 1084 miles and have 40 more miles to do. (96%).
When we finish in two days time we will have walked for 68 days including the one rest day in Reeth. So the average daily mileage is 16.5 miles.
We have camped every night - not one B&B, although I have been tempted on several occasions.
During the whole journey I have not been in a car, bus or train. We also walked all the way around estuaries to the nearest bridge. We did not use any ferries and this probably added another 25 miles to our journey.
My pack is an Osprey Argon 70 litre and I have been very pleased with it. It cost £200 but was worth every penny. Especially as it was a leaving present from my workmates so it cost me nothing. (They said that they still wanted to be on my back everyday)
The only problem is that as I have lost weight I have also lost some of my natural padding and the hip-belt now digs in occasionally. The belt was actually heated and moulded to my waist in the shop.
The average weight of the pack varies according to how much of my food and Gyp's food I am carrying but it is usually around 15kg (33lb).
I woke up to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore 10 yards away. How much would you have to pay for a pitch like this?
After sausage and bacon butties from the Spar shop we were on our way at 8 o'clock.
The walk out of Helmsdale is a slow long uphill slog for over 3 miles. Today we also faced a strong, cold North wind straight into our faces making it a real struggle.
The whole day was spent following the A9. Usually there was a space beyond the continuous white line or else a grass verge.
I knew all about Berriedale Braes from reading other walkers' reviews but, although it was steep on both sides of the valley, I was surprised how short the climbs were. Less than a mile each side. From the top I could look ahead to where we were heading.
We had a look around Dunbeath but found it very spread out. The seafront and small harbour seem remote from the rest of the village. Dunbeath Castle stands on the cliffs half a mile to the South.
By contrast I really enjoyed my time in Golspie, Brora and Helmsdale. Compact, old-fashioned seaside places with real character.
The campsite, Inver Caravan Park, is just outside the village and very exposed. I had a real struggle to put the tent up in the very strong North wind.
STATISTICS
We have now walked 1084 miles and have 40 more miles to do. (96%).
When we finish in two days time we will have walked for 68 days including the one rest day in Reeth. So the average daily mileage is 16.5 miles.
We have camped every night - not one B&B, although I have been tempted on several occasions.
During the whole journey I have not been in a car, bus or train. We also walked all the way around estuaries to the nearest bridge. We did not use any ferries and this probably added another 25 miles to our journey.
My pack is an Osprey Argon 70 litre and I have been very pleased with it. It cost £200 but was worth every penny. Especially as it was a leaving present from my workmates so it cost me nothing. (They said that they still wanted to be on my back everyday)
The only problem is that as I have lost weight I have also lost some of my natural padding and the hip-belt now digs in occasionally. The belt was actually heated and moulded to my waist in the shop.
The average weight of the pack varies according to how much of my food and Gyp's food I am carrying but it is usually around 15kg (33lb).
Day 65 Fri 18th June
12 miles from Brora to Helmsdale
I was woken up initially by a skylark at 3.59 am and then again at 6.00 am by the groundsman cutting the golf course green 30 yards away from me.
After a pleasant jaunt along the shoreline, passing a colony of terns, we came to the dreaded A9 again. For the next ten miles we walked along this road dodging traffic. Not pleasant. It is even worse when you can see the coastline to your right all the while but you cannot get access to it.
We arrived at Helmsdale at noon and I thought about walking on to Dunbeath but decided to stay in the end. After a couple of hours mooching around I found a really good place to wild camp, right next to the beach.
One problem with wild camping is that it never seems to get dark here. I have not used my torch for weeks. Sunset here is 22.21 compared to home in North Yorks where it is 21.42 (nearly 40 minutes later).
I was woken up initially by a skylark at 3.59 am and then again at 6.00 am by the groundsman cutting the golf course green 30 yards away from me.
After a pleasant jaunt along the shoreline, passing a colony of terns, we came to the dreaded A9 again. For the next ten miles we walked along this road dodging traffic. Not pleasant. It is even worse when you can see the coastline to your right all the while but you cannot get access to it.
We arrived at Helmsdale at noon and I thought about walking on to Dunbeath but decided to stay in the end. After a couple of hours mooching around I found a really good place to wild camp, right next to the beach.
One problem with wild camping is that it never seems to get dark here. I have not used my torch for weeks. Sunset here is 22.21 compared to home in North Yorks where it is 21.42 (nearly 40 minutes later).
Day 64 Thurs 17th June
19 miles from Dornoch to Brora
No rush today so we had a good look around Dornoch. I really like the place. This is the Jail and Dornoch Castle Inn where I paid £3.60 for a lovely pint of Red MacGregor but couldn't afford the restaurant fees and ate down the road.
We set off down a quiet single-track lane to Loch Fleet. I thought about crossing it to avoid a 4 mile detour but after stepping on the mud decided against it. We got a close-up view of seals basking pm a mudbank before having to cross yet another bridge at the Western end of Loch Fleet.
Then it was three miles of dangerous roadwalking along the A9 to Golspie.
Time on our side today, we found some shade and had an hour's rest in Golspie.
The views from Golspie seafront were really interesting because it faces South. So in the distance you can clearly see the snow covered North-facing slopes of the Cairngorms. Then as you look to the left you can see another 70 degrees of land to the East.
We left along the beach road in glorious sunshine.
After a couple of miles we passed Dunrobin Castle.
We walked along a quiet woodland path and then through sand-dunes all the way to Brora. On the way we passed the Carn Liath broch, an iron-age dwelling.
After a lovely meal and a few pints of Young Pretender in The Sutherland Arms we set off to find somewhere to camp for the night.
No rush today so we had a good look around Dornoch. I really like the place. This is the Jail and Dornoch Castle Inn where I paid £3.60 for a lovely pint of Red MacGregor but couldn't afford the restaurant fees and ate down the road.
We set off down a quiet single-track lane to Loch Fleet. I thought about crossing it to avoid a 4 mile detour but after stepping on the mud decided against it. We got a close-up view of seals basking pm a mudbank before having to cross yet another bridge at the Western end of Loch Fleet.
Then it was three miles of dangerous roadwalking along the A9 to Golspie.
Time on our side today, we found some shade and had an hour's rest in Golspie.
The views from Golspie seafront were really interesting because it faces South. So in the distance you can clearly see the snow covered North-facing slopes of the Cairngorms. Then as you look to the left you can see another 70 degrees of land to the East.
We left along the beach road in glorious sunshine.
After a couple of miles we passed Dunrobin Castle.
We walked along a quiet woodland path and then through sand-dunes all the way to Brora. On the way we passed the Carn Liath broch, an iron-age dwelling.
After a lovely meal and a few pints of Young Pretender in The Sutherland Arms we set off to find somewhere to camp for the night.
Saturday, 19 June 2010
Saturday 19th
Pete has arrived at Dunbeath but due to no 3G signal cannot upload his blog. He is fine and Gyp is fine ( still collecting sticks ) and only 2 days to go!!!!!
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